Scent is one of the first senses we develop as human beings and one that becomes so intricately linked with memory. The latest from Gucci, Mémoire d’Une Odeur, aims to capture that concept — enabling one to relive those precious moments at any given time. The best part? It’s a genderless fragrance, making it absolutely & universally inclusive.
“Everything comes from my obsession with scents: my memory is primarily olfactive so, for me, my sense of smell is my memory. I was thinking that, deep down, perfume is that thing that even with your eyes closed brings you to a precise moment in space and time. When we began to work on Gucci Mémoire d’une Odeur, I tried to imagine the recollection of a scent that couldn’t easily be identified; a hybrid scent that resembles a memory as much as possible,” Alessandro Michele, Creative Director of Gucci.
“I had to think quite carefully about why Alessandro chose chamomile. When I started to work with the scent of chamomile itself, then I understood; no one had done it before. Chamomile is known all over the world. Everyone has smelled it at some point, but as a dream, a memory of childhood, something timeless, and never in a fragrance. This flower is very underestimated and it’s a plant with an exceptional olfactive signature,” explains Morillas. About the mineral aspect he adds, “The musky mineral accord is the keystone of the fragrance; it links all the other olfactive elements together with pure softness”
Alberto Morillas, Master Perfumer
Mémoire d’une Odeur Eau de Parfum (CAN $148.00/100 ml) | The green colour of the outer packaging hints at the herbal nature of the fragrance, decorated with golden stars inspired by the celestial firmaments found in paintings of Roman and Gothic churches. Created to be a new category — Mineral Aromatic — this is the latest launch from Gucci and meant to be completely unisex. The translucent green ribbed bottle was inspired by one found in the brand’s archives, and comes crowned with a thinly ribbed gold cap embossed with “Gucci” on top.
Opening with Roman Chamomile — an ingredient that isn’t often used in perfumery, it’s paired with Bitter Almond to give the herbal note a bit of a bite. Within minutes, the green-apple/honey tone associated with chamomile makes itself known to add softness, then starts to take on a unique floral sweetness from the Coral Jasmine Nature Print® (a note exclusive to Gucci and collected in India) also known as Queen of the Night, the official flower of Bengal. The dry down comes in as a whisper, adding a grounding finish with Cedarwood and Sandalwood, the woody “architecture” of the fragrance which provides a slight earthy depth and strength of character. Sillage (wear time) is average — being neither too short nor too long, but that will also depend on your body’s unique chemistry.
Even though I have a good sized collection of fragrances and am always happy to include new ones into the rotation, I also tread carefully as certain combinations of notes will trigger an instant migraine. Thankfully, that is so NOT the case here and I am happy to say that it’s been love since my first spritz of Mémoire. That initial first sniff gave me pause, as I couldn’t place what it reminded me of and whether that’s due to excellent marketing or not, I just knew there was a memory teasing the edges of my mind but I couldn’t quite grasp what that memory was. All I know is that it makes me “feel” Summer, as in a road trip I took with my family to Cape Cod. I get a sense of a green sun-dappled forest, walking on damp sand along the beach, but also something soft, soapy and like warm skin. In the end, wearing this makes me feel both joy and somewhat nostalgic … absolutely reliving memories, but also feeling quite relevant to today.
Fragrance is so subjective and it goes without saying that we all have unique personal tastes; what works for one might not for another. All I know is that Mémore d’Une Odeur (French for scent, not literally translated to the English “odour”, in case you’re snickering) meshes so well with my body’s chemistry that I’ve been wearing it non-stop for several days now. I can’t even properly place the scent as it’s so unique in my collection … which just makes me want to wear it even more. Verdict: definitely worth looking into, especially if you’re looking for something that’s fresh, invigorating, yet also somewhat romantic. Plus the bottle is totally display-worthy too.
Available at Holt Renfrew Ogilvy
Kindly provided by Gucci for my unbiased consideration