To harmonize with the more somber tones of the eye products in the collection, Lucia Pica selected a vibrant and fresh palette of colours for cheeks, lips, and nails. The theme of the Collection Libre Synthetic de CHANEL is all about the play of shadow & light, texture, and mood, revisited and reimagined in unique new forms. Then there’s that explosive blush shade … you won’t want to miss out on it, believe me.

Previously reviewed from this collection:

• Architectonic Eyeshadow Palette & Calligraphie Hyperblack

Collection Libre de CHANEL · Rianne Van Rompaey, photographed by Karim Sadli for CHANEL

Joues Contraste 360 Hyperfresh, limited edition (CAN $53.00) | Acting as a counterpoint to the more industrial-like shades of the eyes, this blush is like finding a flower blooming unexpectedly in concrete. A vivid and almost neon pink (neon + CHANEL … who would have thought?), this is an über-pigmented hue that needs a very light hand to start with. Bearing the brand’s signature rose fragrance which dissipates fairly quickly once applied, the texture is incredibly refined and appears flawless when buffed lightly into the skin. There’s the lightest whisper of gold thrown in (visible in the macro shots, below) to add a nice touch of warmth, thus making Hyperfresh wearable by a broad range of skin tones. Lasting power (over foundation) is bang on, staying true & without fading until removed.

The only shade that come close to Hyperfresh from my collection of CHANEL blushes, is 270 Vibration (from Fall 2015, which I believe may no longer be available in Canada) and while both are bright pops of colour, there are still enough differences between them with Hyperfresh leaning slightly more peony pink.

As someone who tends to stick to coral-based blush shades, I was surprised to see that I owned 2 more neon-ish shades in my stash: Starscape (LE) from the NARS Christopher Kane Collection (Spring 2015) and Se Pomponner from Surratt Beauty. Again, while both of these are almost retina-searingly bright (especially when swatched heavily as I have here), neither is a match to Hyperfresh. Starscape, while extremely close, does appear to be a couple of degrees lighter & more true pink, while Se Pomponner is more blue-based and definitely the more vivid of them all. Quality-wise, apart from the fact that all are highly colour-saturated, they also display an extremely refined texture that makes them easy to blend seamlessly into the skin (just make sure to start off with a light hand).

CHANEL · Joues Contraste 360 Hyperfresh vs 270 Vibration swatches

CHANEL · 360 Hyperfresh, NARS Starscape & Surratt Beauty Se Pomponner swatches

There are five lip products in this collection and I have my two favourites to show you here. Playing harmony to the more urban eye shades, both hues are fresh and easily wearable, while the textures offer up a smooth application and continuous hydrating feel to lips.

Rouge Allure Gloss 137 Super Nude, limited edition (CAN $43.00) – I have a total weakness for CHANEL glosses and in particular the Rouge Allure Gloss formula. There’s a nice thickness to the texture that helps it adhere well to lips without feeling tacky, seeming to level out and even fill in lip lines as it settles in. Super Nude is a beautiful mix of both cool & warm undertones which makes it universally wearable by all (without disappearing into one’s skin tone) and probably my fave neutral to date. Staying power is about average for a shade this light, approx. 3-4 hours without eating and/or drinking.

Rouge Allure 247 Ultraberry, limited edition (CAN $43.00) – Having been revamped over a year ago, the Rouge Allure formula provides excellent colour saturation with a rich moisturizing feel. Ultraberry is one of those wine/berry shades that can be worn several ways; lightly blotted to give that “bitten” effect, or layered for more depth of tone. Do note that it will leave a light stain behind, which in itself can also be yet another cool look to this shade.

The three nail shades of this collection (CAN $32.00/limited edition) each offer up a unique look and texture, and can even be mixed and matched (as seen in the swatches below).

542 Pink Rubber – a white based pale pink hue that has the finest pearly shimmer (seen more in direct sunlight) that applies in a self-levelling way but will probably show some patchiness with the first coat. Giving this shade a ‘rubberized’ finish takes it from dainty to something a lot more modern & unique, and also eliminates the need for using a matte top coat (I do love a matte nail). As seen in the swatches below, adding a glossy top coat (Le Gel Coat used here) gives a more classic look, while a layer of Hyperrose Glass gives a playful twist.

544 Hyperrose Glass – a semi-transparent cool pink hue with blue pearl reflects (and even some random darker pink pieces) in a super glossy jelly-like formula. Worn alone, 1 coat provides a pretty pink flush of colour while 2 coats gives a more colour depth, although don’t expect it to reach opacity any time soon. Layering Hyperrose Glass over other shades creates unique new colour combos, thus adding to its versatility.

540 Liquid Mirror – a dark silver metallic (with a grey/steely undertone) in a formula that’s not without it’s share of issues. On the plus side, the colour saturation is intense enough that you get great opacity even by the first coat, but you’ll need a very steady hand to minimize visible brush strokes. Some lines will level out as the polish dries, but do note that it will be impossible to eliminate them all. Another option is to add a layer of Hyperrose Glass which will not only camouflage some of the more obvious lines, but also provide a really cool mauve-y overtone. Apparently the inspiration here lies in the mirrored look and lines of urban skyscrapers and while I appreciate the imagery, I personally don’t feel it’s one that translates as well worn along the nails.

CHANEL · Le Vernis 542 Pink Rubber swatches (natural light & direct sunlight)

CHANEL · Le Vernis 542 Pink Rubber swatches (with top coat & 544 Hyperrose Glass)

CHANEL · Le Vernis 544 Hyperrose Glass swatches (natural light & direct sunlight)

CHANEL · Le Vernis 540 Liquid Mirror swatches (direct sunlight & with Hyperrose Glass)

Apart from the fact that this collection is not overwhelmingly large (as so many other holiday collections tend to be), I’m really liking the sophisticated direction CHANEL has taken. As seen in my previous post, the eyes were all about strong & graphic colours, while here the lips, cheeks & nails serve to soften up any harsh edges. Neon pink is not a shade I’d normally reach for but here’s the thing: a light wash of Hyperfresh serves to totally brighten up the face while also adding a youthful hue, and that touch is always welcome. Both Super Nude and Ultraberry are drop-dead stunning and wearable; enough said. As to the nails, I applaud the mix of textures and and I’m having fun with both Pink Rubber and Hyperrose Glass, but Liquid Mirror just didn’t make the grade as far as I’m concerned, and that’s with bringing my considerable polishing skills to the table. I’m not giving up on it yet, however, as I not only love the colour but the name too; I still have a few more tricks up my sleeve to try!

Available November 1 at all CHANEL beauty counters

Press samples/As always, all opinions are my own