Pat McGrath Labs · Lust 004

It’s almost as though anything Pat McGrath creates is destined to create a worldwide beauty frenzy. Take for example her latest release, Lust 004 — 6 matte lippie shades that come with matching glitter plus a clear gloss — that literally broke & crashed the internet within seconds of going on sale. I know, because I was one of the frustrated many who couldn’t access any of the products that day. But here’s where my story takes a few unexpected twists; grab a cup of something and read on because you won’t want to miss this …

Two days after the Pat McGrath site crashed, it was finally up & running again and even though I was on it in a heartbeat, the Everything Kit I wanted was completely sold out. So what’s a beauty addict to do? Well, I had no choice (right?) but to order each kit individually, even if it was an additional CAN $30.00. Sigh.

About a week later, the products arrived but not without a couple of not-so-welcome surprises; for starters, I had to pay an additional CAN $67.00 in duties (insert stare of disbelief here) AND two packages arrived instead of one, which I then had to spend an additional 30 minutes explaining to the courier that it was a duplicate package sent in error and that it was to be returned (and yes, there was a duty charge on that too, which I fortunately didn’t have to pay as I refused to accept it). Next, after excitedly opening everything up, taking all my photos, and then swatching the entire enchilada, I realized that the Flesh Kit (which came sealed in its own separate package, mind you) held two Flesh 1 pencils instead of both Flesh 1 & Flesh 2. Oy — and the nightmare continued.

I immediately contacted Pat McGrath’s customer service and explained the situation; imagine my surprise when a couple of days later, they not only responded but apologized for the error and told me they would send the missing shade. Soooooo….fast-forward a few more days, and another package arrived (by the way, I was advised ahead of time what the duty charges were and I was even credited in advance from Pat McGrath Labs — points scored for that) and when it finally came, imagine the look on my face when I opened it up … and found the Bloodwine Kit (Blood 1 & Blood 2) instead of the Flesh 2 shade I was expecting. Seriously?

I immediately contacted the customer service department again and within a couple of days I received another reply; once more, they apologized for the mix-up and to make up for all the inconvenience, want to know what they did? I’ll tell you: they not only credited my card with the full amount of my original order, but told me to keep this secondary set AND finally sent along the missing Flesh 2 shade (with no duty incurred, thank you). So at the end of the day, it all turned out well and I was really happy to see that they were not only willing to stand behind their products, but went out of their way to ensure that this customer was happy. Way to redeem yourselves, Pat McGrath Labs.

*Note that in the photo below, Flesh 1 is shown twice as I hadn’t realized it was duplicated when I began swatching everything, and obviously I was too lazy to do them all over again.

Pat McGrath Labs · Lust 004

As I stated in my mini-novella above, I initially had my sights on the Everything Kit, as it contained, well…everything plus it worked out a little cheaper than purchasing each kit separately, which is what I ended up doing anyway. On the plus side, I wound up with 3 tubes of the awesome Clear Vinyl Gloss (as opposed to just the one included with the Everything) and three pots of the Metallic Gold Pigment (maybe not as handy, but still…) and just knowing that all the products are first edition makes me happy, because yes … I can be silly & shallow that way. For the record, I know that the whole sequin thing is Pat’s signature by now, but honestly, the stuff gets everywhere. #sequinoverload

There are no clear and concise instructions on how to apply everything and after a bit of experimentation, I landed upon the best and easiest way to work with them. But first, a breakdown: the matte lip shades come in a black retractible pencil format that has a bevelled edge, one that will wear down quickly and eventually round out. The texture is unbelievable; ultra creamy both in application and feel, and basically glides effortlessly along the lips to deliver full opacity from the first swipe. Considering that these are matte, the finish is not of the flat light-absorbing variety, and neither does it suck out every drop of moisture from the lips, but instead feels totally comfortable throughout the wearing. Flesh 1 is the only shade that shows any patchiness and needs to be first blotted then reapplied in order to look as smooth as the rest. The gloss is thick and has megawatt shine, but without any heavy sticky feeling associated with a product this dense; I still haven’t figured out how that sorcery was accomplished. The beauty of a clear gloss such as this, is in its versatility — wear it alone or over any lipstick you desire, and it instantly boosts lips with major volume.

And now for the pièce de résistance, the glitter (or how not to get it all over EVERYTHING). Using a flat lip brush, my first attempt had me applying the glitter over my chosen lipstick which also had just a hint of gloss; my thinking was that the gloss would help bind everything together. WRONG. The gloss just made things slide around and the glitter glopped about it little bunches — so NOT the look I was going for. Going back to the drawing board, I used the same lip brush and this time applied the glitter right on top of the lipstick (no gloss) and voilà! Success! It’s actually quite easy this way and you can go as light or as heavy as you prefer; I tend to apply it to the centre of the lips, concentrating on the cupid’s bow and ensuring the entire middle portion of my lips is well covered — this method works to not only give the illusion of a more lush pout, but makes the glitter really stand out (not that it needs all that much help to begin with).

A word about the glitter; my biggest fear was that it would feel like I applied a layer of sand to my lips and that it would subsequently get all over my teeth, but in fact the texture is so refined that it seems to fuse with the lipstick and within seconds of application I totally forget it’s even there — until someone mentions it, which is something that happens non-stop, when wearing any of these combos. True story: the first time I wore a “Pat McGrath Lip” to an media preview I recently attended, my lips basically hijacked the event and we spent the entire time talking about the products. Staying power of the lipsticks is unbelievably long, even with eating and drinking (I actually put it to the test this past Saturday at a wedding where I wore the Venom 1 combo, and everything stayed relatively put almost the entire evening), and even though some of the glitter might fade (or get eaten), there’s still plenty showing through to keep the look alive.

Bonus: mixing a bit of the Metallic Gold Pigment with the gloss creates the most spectacular molten gold shade — can’t wait to try this effect with other finely ground pigments I have laying about here and see what happens.

Pat McGrath Labs · Lust 004 Microfine Glitters & Metallic Gold Pigment

Pat McGrath Labs · Lust 004 Clear Vinyl Gloss

Pat McGrath Labs · Lust 004 swatches*

Flesh 1 – nude with a peachy undertone
Venom 1 – vivid scarlet
Venom 2 – deep wine red
Blood 1 – true red, blue-based
Blood 2 – intense burgundy

*Flesh 1 is shown twice in the swatches above, as I hadn’t realized my error at the time

Pat McGrath Labs · Flesh 1 swatches

Pat McGrath Labs · Flesh 1 with Flesh Microfine Glitter swatch

Pat McGrath Labs · Venom 1 swatches

Pat McGrath Labs · Venom 1 with Venom Microfine Glitter swatch

Pat McGrath Labs · Venom 2 swatches

Pat McGrath Labs · Blood 1 swatches

Pat McGrath Labs · Blood 2 swatches

Pat McGrath Labs · Metallic Gold Pigment & Clear Vinyl Gloss swatch

Pat McGrath Labs · Lust 004

Hype is a powerful thing, and even someone as immersed in this industry as myself, is not immune (as this post proves). I don’t often purchase sight unseen but this is my second experience with a Pat McGrath Labs product (Skin Fetish 003 previously reviewed) and I felt confident enough in the quality to go ahead and order. If there’s anything I find fault with, it has to be with the packaging which is just not up to par, especially when you consider the excellent quality of the products. You’ll say at this point that it’s the product that counts, right? Well yes….and no. When you’re paying a premium price, you should get the entire deal: product & packaging. To say that by simply slapping on a printed label and not investing in more complex packaging, that the brand is therefore opting to focus on ingredients and not the exterior, would be a lie as it takes as much effort & cost to do this step than to print directly on the tube itself. So Pat, if you’re listening, take note: you need to up your packaging game to at least meet the standards of the products you’re putting out — at that point, pretty much no one will touch you.

Still showing availability at Sephora (I know, right?)

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Guerlain · Shalimar Collection by Natalia Vodianova, Holiday 2016

October 18, 2016

Several weeks ago I was honoured to be amongst a select few invited to a special media preview of the Guerlain Shalimar Collection for Holiday 2016 which was held at Restaurant Europea in the heart of downtown Montréal. Discreetly tucked away on de la Montagne Street, the unassuming exterior belies the gastronomic delights we were about to discover, along with the exquisite beauty collection itself. Presented by key members of the Guerlain team along with International Makeup Artist for the brand, Maxime Poulin (whose talent is simply phenomenal), we were given a thorough breakdown of not only the entire collection, but of several other new releases, including Orchidée Imperial Black, the most über-luxurious skincare cream I’ve ever come across, and the newest additions to the Les Exclusifs de Guerlain fragrance range.

The Guerlain holiday release is always one of the season’s most highly anticipated (last year’s version sold out as soon as it hit counters), and the Shalimar Collection which was created by Shalimar face & muse Natalia Vodianova in collaboration with the house’s Creative Director, Olivier Echaudemaison, is no exception — drawing inspiration from Imperial India and one of history’s great love stories, that of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Tahal. Their passion and love for one another has since reached legendary status and when she passed away, her grief-stricken husband dedicated one last homage to her: the creation of one of the seven wonders of the world, the Taj Mahal, a tomb fit for a queen.

I’m going to warn you right now: this post is quite picture-heavy so get comfortable and read on. I’ve begun with the event itself, immediately followed by my review with swatches of the entire collection. I’ve also included the Shalimar full-length video produced by Bruno Aveillan — an absolute must-see for any die-hard romantic. Personally, I can watch this on repeat all day long as it is just so beautifully crafted and visually arresting. Then there’s the divine jewelry worn by Natalia that I’m absolutely lusting after …

*Note that the entire collection is limited edition

Natalia Vodianova for Shalimar

The Legend of Shalimar, directed by Bruno Aveillan

The venue: Restaurant Europea, downtown Montréal, Québec

Brought to the event from the Guerlain vault: the Shalimar Talisman Bizantin by Maison Gripoix, bearing 1.5 litres of Shalimar Extract and valued at $11,500 — of which there are only 25 pieces in the world

It’s all in the details: delicate beading surrounds the neck with the iconic chauve-souris (bat) label in front

Table settings and ambiance — all perfectly meshed

Guerlain Shalimar Collection by Natalia Vodianova, Holiday 2016

Lobster Capuccino with truffle purée

Lower-River shrimps & pea gazpacho, creamy celery remoulade, citronnade, roasted sunflower seeds & wild pansy petals (*photo taken before the gazpacho was added)

Strips of cured meat paired with white wine

Caramelized scallops, citrus & yuzu juice, creamy risotto with green sprouts & crispy-fondant sautéed mushrooms

Lemon Pie Cristalline with fresh berries

Vanilla meringue buttons and raspberry cotton candy

Guerlain · Shalimar Collection by Natalia Vodianova, Holiday 2016

The uniqueness of this collections starts with the intense cobalt blue outer packaging, a hue that’s also carried throughout the rest of the pieces. Inspired by the colours of India’s precious metals and stones, blue & gold decorates the detailing of the Météorites container, a design which is reminiscent of elegantly delicate lapis lazuli jewelry boxes. Taking things to the next level, a faux-sapphire cabochon adorns the luxurious Rouge G lipstick, turning this ubiquitous beauty item into a covet-worthy work of art that just begs to be taken out in public. Rounding the collection out is the body & hair spray; delicate, ethereal and the only festive touch you’ll need for the holidays.

Precious Light Pink Pearly Illuminator (CAN $62.00) | A subtle highlighter in a pen format that you click to release the product onto the brush. The shade is a pale pink with pearly reflects and can be used to bring radiance to key points of the face: inner or outer corners of the eye, upper cheekbones, bridge of the nose, brow bone and/or cupid’s bow of the lips. The shade is actually universally wearable due to the complexity of the pearly particles, and should even suit the darkest complexions without appearing ashy.

Guerlain · Precious Light Pink Pearly Illuminator

Guerlain · Precious Light Pink Pearly Illuminator swatches

Écrin Shalimar Precious Eyeshadows, Gold & Sapphire (CAN $51.00) | The two shades of this palette are not only incredibly complex formula-wise, but work in perfect harmony together. The gold has a nice balance of both cool and warm tones, therefore making it workable on a broad range of skin tones, while the sapphire is truly jewel-like with hints of indigo, purple and even a fine blue shimmer thrown in to keep it unique. The texture is incredibly smooth — almost creamy to the touch — and blends beautifully. The colour of both shades, while not initially overly strong, is also easily built up; you can apply either as a sheer wash of colour, or layered for more impact and depth of tone. One thing to note with Guerlain eyeshadows: if you opt to use the shades damp, then you probably won’t be able to go back to using either dry again, as wetting them changes the texture.

Guerlain Shalimar Collection · Écrin Shalimar Precious Eyeshadows, Gold & Sapphire

Guerlain Shalimar Collection · Écrin Shalimar Precious Eyeshadows, Gold & Sapphire swatches

Guerlain Shalimar Collection · Écrin Shalimar Precious Eyeshadows, Gold & Sapphire

L’Or Eyeliner, Felt Eyeliner Sparkling Gold (CAN $42.0) | A scintillating gold eyeliner with a felt tip for ease of use and precision application. The texture is initially cooling to the touch upon skin (but which dissipates fairly quickly) and you can build up the intensity for more impact. Apart from using this in place of a traditional eyeliner (i.e.: to line either the upper or lower lash line), you can also apply some to your finger then lightly pat that on the mobile lid for some extra sparkle, or my favourite, along the tips of the outer lashes for a unique glittering touch. There’s about 30 seconds of play time before it sets, because once it does, it’s there until removed. True fact: I swatched a bit on my hand and even after showering, it was still there — how’s that for crazy staying power?

Guerlain Shalimar Collection · L’Or Eyeliner, Felt Eyeliner Sparkling Gold

Guerlain Shalimar Collection · L’Or Eyeliner, Felt Eyeliner Sparkling Gold swatches

Guerlain Shalimar Collection · Terracotta Terra India Shimmering Bronzing Powder

Terracotta Terra India Shimmering Bronzing Powder (CAN $64.00) | There are several facets that make this Terracotta powder stand apart from the brand’s other versions: first up is the indigo outer packaging, followed by the intricate pattern embossed on the powder’s surface. Not meant to be a bronzer in the traditional sense, the hue appears more rose-gold when applied thus turning it into an almost hybrid highlighter/bronzer type of product. That being said, there’s a unique versatility to this shade in the fact that all skin tones can get something out of it: the über-fair can use this as bronzer without fear of overdoing things, it works as a gorgeous highlighter (neither blingy nor ashy) for women of colour, and makes for a gorgeous touch of radiance for just about everyone. The texture is [unsurprisingly] highly refined and blends/buffs into the skin flawlessly, while the product can be worn either as a sheer wash or layered for more depth — all depending on your preferences and the look you’re going for.

Guerlain Shalimar Collection · Terracotta Terra India Shimmering Bronzing Powder

Guerlain Shalimar Collection · Terracotta Terra India Shimmering Bronzing Powder swatches

821 Rouge Saphir Rouge G Exceptional Complete Lip Care (CAN $61.00) | The epitome of luxury lip colour, if a fairy-tale Indian princess carried a lipstick, then I’m betting this would have been it. The finesse starts with the casing, which here is a gleaming pewter that bears a solid heft to it and adorned with a faux-sapphire cabochon. Popped open, it reveals a mirror — perfect for touch ups and basically made to be pulled out in public to do so (I mean, how could you not?). The shade is a lush scarlet and so incredibly pigmented that you basically get full coverage/opacity from the first swipe. As to the texture, I almost have no words: buttery, velvety, and hands down superior to anything else I’ve ever applied to my lips. Even the staying power is impressive, lasting through eating & drinking with minimal fading, and leaving a beautiful deep-rose stain behind.

Guerlain Shalimar Collection · 821 Rouge Saphir Rouge G Exceptional Complete Lip Colour

Guerlain Shalimar Collection · 821 Rouge Saphir Rouge G Exceptional Complete Lip Colour swatch

Météorites Perles de Légende (CAN $79.00) | I may have an slight obsession with Météorites, begun when I first discovered these little pearls of perfection years ago and saw first-hand the effect they can have on one’s skin. This collection’s iteration is no less amazing; housed in a stunning metal container that bears a design perhaps Peter Carl Fabergé might have imagined, the 3 shades it holds were personally selected by Natalia as they reminded her of ‘the colour of mosaics in Indian palaces’, although there’s more to them than that. The pink hue provides brightness and enhances the complexion with a touch of freshness, the blue shade works to even out the skin, while the golden hues act as subtle illumination and call forth light to the face. Bearing the brand’s signature violet fragrance, it does dissipate fairly quickly after application and instead of the usual powder puff (which honestly, I never use) the pearls are protected by a foam cover. Slightly more shimmery than any of the Météorites in the permanent range by virtue of the golden pearls, the effect is still delicate enough that you won’t come off as appearing overly glittery. In fact, trying to describe what this powder does is beyond difficult; you basically have to try it to fully understand, but it’s like an invisible veil that somehow magically makes your skin look a zillion times better. The type that will have people asking what you did, because your complexion looks so good.

Guerlain Shalimar Collection · Météorites Perles de Légende

Guerlain Shalimar Collection · Météorites Perles de Légende swatches

Souffle D’Or Perfumed Iridescent Body & Hair Powder (CAN $105.00) | The final crowning touch, Souffle D’Or is literally bottled fairy dust. I kid you not.

Imbued with a subtle version of the Shalimar fragrance, this gossamer-light mist is meant to add delicate golden touches to either hair or skin and retains some of the scent long after it’s applied, only to be picked up ever-so-softly with movement. The indigo bottle bears the traditional Shalimar shape and has that Old Hollywood-glam style bulb for applying it with, lending a sensuous boudoir touch to the entire experience. The shimmery bits come in a variety of sizes and while some may fade, others stay behind along with a whisper of scent, just to keep things interesting.

Guerlain Shalimar Collection · Souffle D’Or Perfumed Iridescent Body & Hair Powder

Guerlain Shalimar Collection · Souffle D’Or Perfumed Iridescent Body & Hair Powder (in action)

Guerlain Shalimar Collection · Souffle D’Or Perfumed Iridescent Body & Hair Powder swatch

If you’ve made it all the way to this point, then I applaud you for sticking it out but sometimes you just can’t condense something so spectacular in just a few words or pictures. Guerlain is a luxury brand that refuses to comprise on details, and that fact is brilliantly apparent with the Shalimar Collection, a first for Natalia Vodianova who’s been the muse for the Shalimar fragrance range running on 8 years now. This collection has been beautifully curated and nothing has been overlooked, but it does lean on the steep-side price-wise; the lipstick alone is a hefty investment, but I can honestly say that I have never worn anything like it before (and trust me, I’ve worn a lot). Last year’s Météorites had a waitlist a mile long and something tells me that this year’s version will fare the same, especially when you consider that the shade range is so suitable to a much broader complexion range. With the Christmas season and holidays upon us, any one of the pieces here would make an absolutely incredible gift for the beauty-lover on your list … that’s assuming you don’t scoop everything up for yourself first.

Available November 1

Press samples/As always, all opinions are my own

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Dior · Infinity Fusion Mono, Precious Embroidery & Smoky Sequins Eyeshadow Pallettes, Splendor 2016 Collection

October 16, 2016

The Dior Splendor 2016 Collection is in a word: spectacular. Take for example both the Precious Embroidery and the Smoky Sequins eye shadow palettes and their exquisite sequin-pattern detailing — so meticulously rendered, that you’d be excused for mistaking it as the real thing. Sitting quietly in the background, but no less impressive, is the Infinity Mono Fusion Eye Shadow that is breathtaking whether worn solo or as part of the team. Then there are the colours themselves, imbued with the festive spirit of the holidays but staying away from the usual blingy silver & golds. Oh Dior, you’re slaying. Or is that ‘sleigh-ing’?

Previously reviewed from this collection:

Diorific Vernis in Nova, Splendor & Cosmic

Dior · Infinity Fusion Mono, Precious Embroidery & Smoky Sequins Eyeshadow Palettes

Dior · Precious Embroidery & Smoky Sequins Eyeshadow Palettes

Dior · 776 Precious Embroidery Eyeshadow Palette

776 Precious Embroidery Eyeshadow Palette, limited edition (CAN $73.00) | I swear, it took all my willpower to actually put a brush to these palettes …

Precious Embroidery is the more warmer leaning of the two, but theres a versatility to these shades that in turn makes it universally wearable by all skin tones. All five hues have shimmer of varying degrees, some slightly more complex than others, and each displays an excellent level of colour saturation and excellent blendability. You can always intensify the colours by applying them using a dampened brush, although the colour payoff is equally impressive applied dry. Wear time over primer is solid, staying true until removed without creasing or fading. The shade breakdown (going clockwise from the top left):

pink beige/taupe
pearly white
champagne (centre)
rich brown with burgundy reflects
café au lait

Dior · 776 Precious Embroidery Eyeshadow Palette

Dior · 776 Precious Embroidery Eyeshadow Palette swatches

Dior · 776 Precious Embroidery Eyeshadow Palette

Dior · 066 Smoky Sequins Eyeshadow Palette

066 Smoky Sequins Eyeshadow Palette, limited edition (CAN $73.00) | What appears to be the cooler-leaning of the two palettes, turns out to be just as equally wearable by all complexions across the board. As with the previous group, all five hues have a shimmer that can be dialled up or down, depending on whether they’re worn dry, damp, or layered. Once again, each has a beautiful colour payoff, a buttery smooth application, and a very easy blend factor. The shade breakdown (going clockwise from top left):

bright silver
ice-white pearl
oyster (centre)
ebony with blue reflects
steel grey (complex blue shimmer)

Dior · 066 Smoky Sequins Eyeshadow Palette

Dior · 066 Smoky Sequins Eyeshadow Palette swatches

Dior · 066 Smoky Sequins Eyeshadow Palette

Dior · 751 Infinity Mono Fusion Eye Shadow

751 Infinity Mono Fusion Eye Shadow, limited edition (CAN $40.00) | Cream-to-powder eye shadows are nothing groundbreaking, but if you’ve yet to try the Dior version, then you’re totally missing out. Infinity is hard to describe in words; depending on the light, it may appear platinum then a quick angle change and it morphs into something golden, hard to pin down but gorgeous nevertheless. The shimmer is ultra refined with the texture like silk; I usually prefer using my finger for application of these types of products, but a variety of both synthetic & natural-bristled brushes works easily here as well. You have about a minute of play time to blend or buff it out before it sets — then it’s good to go for the duration. As my lids tend to get oily, I never skip primer but if yours are on the drier side, then go ahead and apply this straight up; I’m betting it won’t budge.

Dior · 751 Infinity Mono Fusion Eye Shadow

Dior · 751 Infinity Mono Fusion Eye Shadow swatches

It’s been a few seasons now that Dior has gone back to the drawing board where their eyeshadow formulation is concerned, and since then the brand has not only turned the formula around & improved it, but continues to positively evolve with each release. Creative and Image Director for the brand, Peter Philips, was inspired by the artistry and precise detailing seen in the atelier’s haute couture work, and taking his cues from that incredible craftsmanship, these multi-faceted shades were born. A tad pricey they may be, but the quality goes a long way in offsetting that snag. To sum them up: beauty in motion, or at least in makeup form.

Available at The Bay & select Dior counters nationwide

Press samples/As always, all opinions are my own

Dior · Diorific Vernis Splendor, Cosmic & Nova – Holiday Splendor 2016 Collection

October 14, 2016

Drawing inspiration from exquisite haute couture detailing, Dior has just launched the Splendor 2016 Collection for the holidays, filled with timeless & classic colours such as the nail shades shown here … then added a festive little twist to keep things unique. As in past holiday collections, these Diorific Vernis hues come housed in round retro-glam bottles with gold packaging, details that are totally not lost on a beauty obsessive such as myself.

I’ll be posting the rest of the collection in upcoming reviews — stay tuned as you won’t want to miss seeing any of it, believe me! For more behind-the-scenes-peeks, I welcome you to join me @ommorphia on any (or all!) of my other platforms: Instagram & InstaStories, Snapchat, Facebook, Pinterest & Twitter.

∗Note that there are 2 more shades — 328 Golden and a pink hue that I believe won’t be released in Canada.

Dior · Diorific Vernis, Holiday Splendor 2016 Collection

001 Nova, limited edition (CAN $34.00) | Described as a “broken mirror top coat”, this little beauty is definitely the heart & star attraction of the three. Bearing a clear base, it’s filled with irregularly shaped iridescent shards. The formula leans on the thick side but is easy to apply and has the added advantage of not needing any fishing to get enough of the shimmery bits per brushful, although you may need to nudge a few strays in place (any that might stick out along the free nail edge or along the sides). Brilliantly reflective, you can wear Nova on its own or layered over EVERYTHING (seriously) and if you’re really looking to bring out its prismatic effect (especially with a darker colour underneath), try adding a matte top coat and then sit back to watch the magic happen. Relatively smooth to the touch, it becomes even more so with a regular top coat added.

Coats: 2, plus top coat

Dior · 001 Nova Diorific Vernis

Dior · 001 Nova Diorific Vernis swatches

850 Splendor, limited edition (CAN $34.00) | A rich deep garnet (red velvet?) hue filled with Dior’s iconic ultra fine shimmer in gold & red hues. Slightly cooler leaning due to the blue undertones in the base, Splendor is super colour-saturated — almost a one-coat-wonder. The shimmer is apparent regardless of lighting, and while more vivid in direct light, it still manages to provide a lush depth of tone to this colour even when seen indoors. Self-levelling with an excellent flow & opacity, and ultra glossy at the finish, it’s also relatively non-staining provided you apply base coat first.

Coats: 2, plus top coat (1 coat of Nova added then mattified in the last two swatches)

Dior · 850 Splendor Diorific Vernis

Dior · 850 Splendor Diorific Vernis swatch

Dior · 850 Splendor Diorific Vernis swatches, with 001 Nova (left) & mattified (right)

899 Cosmic, limited edition (CAN $34.00) | As someone who’s a huge fan of brooding darkling shades, Cosmic sits right in the heart of my colour wheelhouse. This is a blackened violet hue with grape undertones and chock-full of ultrafine shimmer in bronze and burgundy hues, of the type that Dior does so well. With an effortless application, the formula is smoothly laying and comes to a natural high-gloss finish — along with being relatively stain-free, provided you first add a base coat. Just when I thought it couldn’t get better, I threw on a layer of Nova then took things to the next level by mattifying it all up, and I ended up with a major OMG moment. Just look at it; seriously frame-worthy.

Coats: 2, plus top coat (1 coat of Nova added then mattified in the last three swatches)

Dior · 899 Cosmic Diorific Vernis

Dior · 899 Cosmic Diorific Vernis swatches, with 001 Nova (right)

Dior · 899 Cosmic Diorific Vernis swatches with 001 Nova magnified (direct sunlight, right)

Dior · Diorific Vernis, Holiday Splendor 2016 Collection

You’ve probably heard me say this several times before, but Dior makes one of my favourite nail polish formulas and that also includes the three holiday versions shown here. The bottles are absolutely adorable and almost begged to be displayed (but a total pain to hold while trying to photograph them), with the brush being the only departure from that of the regular range, both in size/length of the wand and shape. Nevertheless, it still splays effortlessly along the nail and I actually think the shorter size makes it almost easier to maneuver — but I still prefer the usual format just the same. If you get nothing else (although good luck in picking just one), make sure you don’t miss out on Nova — I’m definitely planning on a back up.

Available at The Bay & select Dior counters nationwide

Press samples/As always, all opinions are my own

CHANEL · Cheeks, Lips & Nails – Collection Libre de CHANEL

October 13, 2016

To harmonize with the more somber tones of the eye products in the collection, Lucia Pica selected a vibrant and fresh palette of colours for cheeks, lips, and nails. The theme of the Collection Libre Synthetic de CHANEL is all about the play of shadow & light, texture, and mood, revisited and reimagined in unique new forms. Then there’s that explosive blush shade … you won’t want to miss out on it, believe me.

Previously reviewed from this collection:

Architectonic Eyeshadow Palette & Calligraphie Hyperblack

Collection Libre de CHANEL · Rianne Van Rompaey, photographed by Karim Sadli for CHANEL

Joues Contraste 360 Hyperfresh, limited edition (CAN $53.00) | Acting as a counterpoint to the more industrial-like shades of the eyes, this blush is like finding a flower blooming unexpectedly in concrete. A vivid and almost neon pink (neon + CHANEL … who would have thought?), this is an über-pigmented hue that needs a very light hand to start with. Bearing the brand’s signature rose fragrance which dissipates fairly quickly once applied, the texture is incredibly refined and appears flawless when buffed lightly into the skin. There’s the lightest whisper of gold thrown in (visible in the macro shots, below) to add a nice touch of warmth, thus making Hyperfresh wearable by a broad range of skin tones. Lasting power (over foundation) is bang on, staying true & without fading until removed.

The only shade that come close to Hyperfresh from my collection of CHANEL blushes, is 270 Vibration (from Fall 2015, which I believe may no longer be available in Canada) and while both are bright pops of colour, there are still enough differences between them with Hyperfresh leaning slightly more peony pink.

As someone who tends to stick to coral-based blush shades, I was surprised to see that I owned 2 more neon-ish shades in my stash: Starscape (LE) from the NARS Christopher Kane Collection (Spring 2015) and Se Pomponner from Surratt Beauty. Again, while both of these are almost retina-searingly bright (especially when swatched heavily as I have here), neither is a match to Hyperfresh. Starscape, while extremely close, does appear to be a couple of degrees lighter & more true pink, while Se Pomponner is more blue-based and definitely the more vivid of them all. Quality-wise, apart from the fact that all are highly colour-saturated, they also display an extremely refined texture that makes them easy to blend seamlessly into the skin (just make sure to start off with a light hand).

CHANEL · Joues Contraste 360 Hyperfresh vs 270 Vibration swatches

CHANEL · 360 Hyperfresh, NARS Starscape & Surratt Beauty Se Pomponner swatches

There are five lip products in this collection and I have my two favourites to show you here. Playing harmony to the more urban eye shades, both hues are fresh and easily wearable, while the textures offer up a smooth application and continuous hydrating feel to lips.

Rouge Allure Gloss 137 Super Nude, limited edition (CAN $43.00) – I have a total weakness for CHANEL glosses and in particular the Rouge Allure Gloss formula. There’s a nice thickness to the texture that helps it adhere well to lips without feeling tacky, seeming to level out and even fill in lip lines as it settles in. Super Nude is a beautiful mix of both cool & warm undertones which makes it universally wearable by all (without disappearing into one’s skin tone) and probably my fave neutral to date. Staying power is about average for a shade this light, approx. 3-4 hours without eating and/or drinking.

Rouge Allure 247 Ultraberry, limited edition (CAN $43.00) – Having been revamped over a year ago, the Rouge Allure formula provides excellent colour saturation with a rich moisturizing feel. Ultraberry is one of those wine/berry shades that can be worn several ways; lightly blotted to give that “bitten” effect, or layered for more depth of tone. Do note that it will leave a light stain behind, which in itself can also be yet another cool look to this shade.

The three nail shades of this collection (CAN $32.00/limited edition) each offer up a unique look and texture, and can even be mixed and matched (as seen in the swatches below).

542 Pink Rubber – a white based pale pink hue that has the finest pearly shimmer (seen more in direct sunlight) that applies in a self-levelling way but will probably show some patchiness with the first coat. Giving this shade a ‘rubberized’ finish takes it from dainty to something a lot more modern & unique, and also eliminates the need for using a matte top coat (I do love a matte nail). As seen in the swatches below, adding a glossy top coat (Le Gel Coat used here) gives a more classic look, while a layer of Hyperrose Glass gives a playful twist.

544 Hyperrose Glass – a semi-transparent cool pink hue with blue pearl reflects (and even some random darker pink pieces) in a super glossy jelly-like formula. Worn alone, 1 coat provides a pretty pink flush of colour while 2 coats gives a more colour depth, although don’t expect it to reach opacity any time soon. Layering Hyperrose Glass over other shades creates unique new colour combos, thus adding to its versatility.

540 Liquid Mirror – a dark silver metallic (with a grey/steely undertone) in a formula that’s not without it’s share of issues. On the plus side, the colour saturation is intense enough that you get great opacity even by the first coat, but you’ll need a very steady hand to minimize visible brush strokes. Some lines will level out as the polish dries, but do note that it will be impossible to eliminate them all. Another option is to add a layer of Hyperrose Glass which will not only camouflage some of the more obvious lines, but also provide a really cool mauve-y overtone. Apparently the inspiration here lies in the mirrored look and lines of urban skyscrapers and while I appreciate the imagery, I personally don’t feel it’s one that translates as well worn along the nails.

CHANEL · Le Vernis 542 Pink Rubber swatches (natural light & direct sunlight)

CHANEL · Le Vernis 542 Pink Rubber swatches (with top coat & 544 Hyperrose Glass)

CHANEL · Le Vernis 544 Hyperrose Glass swatches (natural light & direct sunlight)

CHANEL · Le Vernis 540 Liquid Mirror swatches (direct sunlight & with Hyperrose Glass)

Apart from the fact that this collection is not overwhelmingly large (as so many other holiday collections tend to be), I’m really liking the sophisticated direction CHANEL has taken. As seen in my previous post, the eyes were all about strong & graphic colours, while here the lips, cheeks & nails serve to soften up any harsh edges. Neon pink is not a shade I’d normally reach for but here’s the thing: a light wash of Hyperfresh serves to totally brighten up the face while also adding a youthful hue, and that touch is always welcome. Both Super Nude and Ultraberry are drop-dead stunning and wearable; enough said. As to the nails, I applaud the mix of textures and and I’m having fun with both Pink Rubber and Hyperrose Glass, but Liquid Mirror just didn’t make the grade as far as I’m concerned, and that’s with bringing my considerable polishing skills to the table. I’m not giving up on it yet, however, as I not only love the colour but the name too; I still have a few more tricks up my sleeve to try!

Available November 1 at all CHANEL beauty counters