Lise Watier | Expression Blush Trio & Multifunction Powder Brush

April 10, 2015

Montréal beauty powerhouse brand Lise Watier has recently released one of the prettiest collections of the season, the Expression Spring 2015 Collection – filled with the freshness of Springtime and watercolour-inspired packaging. One of the undisputed stars of this collection is the Expression Blush Trio as much for its beautifully worked pattern of shades, as well as the interesting optical illusion of its textured surface (and which almost had me believing it had cracked in transit upon first opening it up … it’s that realistic). The Multifunction Powder Brush (sold separately) also available with this collection, is a soft-bristled large fan brush which can be used a number of ways and with several different products, as well as a lovely addition to one’s makeup brush collection.

Multifunction Powder Brush (CAN $35.00) is a softly-bristled oversize fan brush, but which still has enough density to provide either a diffused application of product, or used along its side for slightly more detailed work. With regards to using it in tandem with the Expression Blush Trio, the easiest way is to sweep the brush along the entire surface of the compact and applying along the cheekbones or other high planes of the face – this method is excellent for a sheerer wash of colour, and by alternating between the wider and narrower portions of the brush, you can adjust the level of product placement to some degree (but not as much as when using a more traditional blush brush, that’s for sure).

Expression Blush Trio is a triad of blush shades in a powder formula:

lower left corner: rosewood (the deepest colour of the three), warm leaning
centre: true pink (largest portion of the compact), cool leaning
upper right corner: peach (sheerest/can also double as a highlighter)

The hues of the Expression Blush Trio can be used simultaneously by swirling a brush across all three colours, although each individual shade is of a large enough size that you should be able to easily pick up just one colour, if desired. The formula is quite powdery and displays more kickback than I expected to find – which would ordinarily be a deal-breaker for me, but the end result more than makes up for this drawback; the finish of this blush as it fuses with the skin and warms up with one’s natural oils, is of the ethereal-looking glow type (not exactly shimmery, and far from flat) and not one that sits at the surface level, but as though emanating from the inside. And it only gets better with the wearing.

Of the three shades, the deepest one is my absolute favourite and deserves to be released as a single. I initially thought that the cooler leaning pink shade (the largest portion of the compact) would not be something I could pull off, but it surprisingly works quite well with my skin tone, and when combined with touches of the other hues, becomes extremely flattering and brightening as well. The peach shade is one that I personally wouldn’t recommend wearing on its own; combined with the others, it provides a nice spot of luminosity and works beautifully as a highlighter as well. As far as staying power goes (and when worn/applied over foundation), I am able to get a full day’s worth of wearing, going easily 7-8 hours before any fading takes place.

Ingredients

TALC, ALUMINUM STRACH OCTENYLSUCCINATE, OCTYLDODECYL STEAROYL STEARATE, PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE, PHENYL TRIMETHICONE, SILICA, SORBIC ACID, SODIUM DEHYDROACETATE, PARFUM (FRAGRANCE), MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 15850 (RED 7 LAKE), CI 19140 (YELLOW 5 LAKE), CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 45410 (RED 28), CI 15985 (YELLOW 6 LAKE), CI 75470 (CARMINE), CI 77007 (ULTRAMARINES), TIN OXIDE

Swatches of all three shades shown individually

Swatch of all three shades blended out

The old saying of “appearances can be deceiving” is one that can definitely be applied here; starting from the obvious (the ‘cracked’ surface pattern) to actual application, I was unprepared for how the Expression Blush Trio surprised me – but love it just the same! The powdery nature of this blush threw me off at first, but seeing the results first hand makes it so worth the extra little bit of effort re: application. The brush is very well made and feels ultra-soft along the skin, and even though it is a wonderful tool for those times a light dusting is needed, I prefer the control that a more traditional blush brush offers. That being said, I was missing a large fan shaped brush in my collection, and so this worked out well just the same. #everythingalwaysworksout

The Expression Blush Trio is limited edition and about to disappear off the shelves – consider this fair warning! Find more information via lisewatier.com

Press sample kindly provided for my unbiased consideration

CHANEL Vitalumière Loose Powder Foundation with Mini Kabuki Brush

April 2, 2015

Press sample provided for my unbiased consideration

CHANEL’s latest addition to their foundation lineup is the recently launched Vitalumière Loose Powder Foundation (CAN $80.00/available in 5 shades and which comes with its own mini kabuki brush). This is a product that is somewhat of a hybrid foundation/face powder rolled into one and meant to give medium to full buildable coverage, all in a lightweight texture that feels undetectable on the skin but which still provides a flawless finish. Then there’s the totally adorable mini kabuki brush it comes with, which feels and behaves exactly like CHANEL’s larger version (reviewed), but better equipped size-wise to handle those tricky & smaller areas of the face. And just so damn cute.

According to the company, this product promises to provide a ‘second-skin effect’ via:

A new generation of high-definition light pigments that makes it possible to capture and diffuse softer light that is more flattering for the complexion
Mica powder, which optimises light reflection for a natural satiny effect
Canola oil derivative, which improves skin suppleness and provides a sensation of comfort on application and all day long
A sunscreen for SPF 15 protection (I’m guessing that some bizarre Canadian regulation doesn’t permit the SPF amount to be listed on the packaging – as always)

I was kindly send shade N°30 to try out, which turns out to be an absolutely perfect match for my skin tone (although I suspect against a light tan, I’ll need to go up a shade).

The flattened round container comes with a protective & removable seal; underneath & helping to keep the contents under control is a mesh sifter to prevent the powder from flooding the upper section. There is a lovely floral scent to this foundation (reminds me of CHANEL’s Hydra Beauty skincare range), that becomes relatively undetectable once applied, but still worth mentioning for those with sensitivities. The stretchiness of the mesh sifter is genius; it has a ‘give’ when you press the brush down upon it, acting as both a barrier to excess powder being kicked up, as well as enabling you to get the right amount of product per use. CHANEL recommends that you tip the closed container over & tap it once on the bottom before righting & opening it, in order to release the powder into the upper compartment, but I find it just as easy to press my brush firmly down upon the sifter to pick up what I need.

I have oily/combination skin (although paradoxically as I’ve gotten older, my skin seems to need a lot more hydration – but the oily part is still alive & kicking, unfortunately) and while I’d love to be able to pull off the ‘dewy’ look, 99% of the time I wind up just looking greasy. Mattifying foundations are usually recommended for my skin type, but those can sometimes feel a little mask-like on my skin while having the added effect of emphasizing fine lines – which is a total deal breaker. Powdered face products meant to keep oiliness at bay can frequently look aging upon my skin, so finding that balance between toning down shine while providing coverage AND detracting from facial lines, can sometimes be a challenge. Enter CHANEL’s Vitalumière Loose Powder Foundation, or as I like to call it, my saviour.

It was recommended to me that using this foundation in conjunction (and on top of) Le Blanc de CHANEL (an illuminating primer and one which totally deserves its own post/spotlight) is the way to go, and after having experimented with applying this foundation several ways, I absolutely have to agree. After moisturizing my face (I give this step about 15 minutes to settle in before continuing with makeup application), I then apply a thin layer of Le Blanc de CHANEL and ensure it’s fully blended in (I give this a couple of minutes to settle in as well), then I’m ready to follow that up with the Vitalumière Loose Powder Foundation. After loading product onto my brush, I start with the fleshier part of the cheeks and blend out towards the ear/hairline; ears, jawline and neck are given a light sweep at the very end.

The initial appearance of this foundation upon the skin, is nothing earth-shattering, but as it warms up and begins to fuse with your natural oils, that’s when the magic happens: my skin simply looks luminous and flawless. It even seems to get better with wear, all while doing an excellent job of keeping shine away throughout the duration (although I do experience the slightest sheen at the end of the day – but nothing that makes me want to instantly reach for blotting paper). My only caution is that for those with dry skin, test-drive this foundation at the counter first, because my instincts tell me it probably won’t produce the same results I get. As to lasting powder, there’s some slight fading at the end of the day but the coverage manages to stay beautifully in place just the same, without any signs of oxidation.

swatch 1

swatch 2

I have tried a few powdered foundations, and none have impressed me enough to want to continue using them. Loose face powder is also not a staple in my makeup regimen (unless I’m doing a more evening look) and while CHANEL claims that this Vitalumière Loose Powder Foundation can provide full coverage, I would have to say that that depends on what your definition of full coverage is. I’m fortunate enough to have pretty decent skin to start with and prefer my foundation to be medium coverage at most – which is exactly the effect I get with this product. The beauty of this formula, is that you can basically dial up the level of coverage by which brush you opt for application (fluffier brushes will provide the lightest veil of colour, while dense Kabuki-style brushes give more opacity), but what has made this foundation hit Holy Grail status for me, is how gorgeous my skin looks throughout the wearing and how well it manages oil without any ensuing cakiness. Sigh of relief, I tell you.

Available at The Bay locations and online through thebay.com (CANADA) – find more information via chanel.com

NARS | Panic & Craving Dual Intensity Blushes, N°23 Wet/Dry Brush

March 31, 2015

Press samples provided for my unbiased consideration

When NARS released their Dual-Intensity Eyeshadows this past Fall (reviewed), they caused quite the stir in the beauty community; not only are these seriously gorgeous to behold, but the formula is a complete innovation to that of any which has come before. Happily, that unique formula is now available in the brand’s Dual-Intensity Blushes (CAN $52.00/available in 6 duos), created with NARS’ ‘exclusive Translucent Prismatic Technology which features pearls and pigments perfectly suspended in a transparent soft base that then allows for multi-dimensional effects with a unique weightless, luxurious texture‘. All six pairings can be mixed & matched for a customizable shade, or applied with a dampened brush (such as the new N°23 Wet/Dry Brush) for a ‘watercolour effect’. To quote François Nars:

“Don’t be so serious; it’s only makeup”

Kind of puts everything into perspective, no? Above all else, makeup is supposed to be fun, and what could be more entertaining than these vivid, intense, shimmery lovelies?

NARS | Dual-Intensity Blushes & Wet/Dry Blush Brush campaign, featuring Tilda Swinton

Wet/Dry Blush Brush N°23 (CAN $49.00) is a small rounded and densely-headed brush that can be used either dry or dampened. The bristles are very tightly packed together and the slightly domed top makes for a very soft, almost buttery sensation upon the skin; think of this as a variation on the kabuki style, and you have a general idea of how it will perform. My favourite way to use this brush is more in the finishing capacity; the density certainly helps with buffing the blush in for a seamless finish, but I prefer starting my application with a softer brush and building as I go. With regards to using this brush wet/dampened, I followed the tip on the NARS website:

‘For a watercolour effect, mist brush with water before application. Dab over the apples of the cheeks and swirl in a circular motion, painting on pigment to your desired intensity’

It should be said that this application method comes with a bit of a learning curve; it’s best to start with a lightly dampened brush (don’t panic if you’ve oversprayed – you can blot any excess with a paper towel) and begin with a scant amount, building from there.

TIP: after several trial & error attempts, the most effective way I’ve found of using this brush (whether wet or dry) is to start by lightly tapping it onto your desired shade and be careful to always start with a small amount – especially with the more pigmented duos. Follow by lightly stippling the brush along the skin (again, use a light hand – I can’t stress that enough) and proceed to then blend everything in using the recommended swirling pattern.

Panic Dual-Intensity Blush is a vibrant pink-fuchsia/peach-pink duo. Both shades are highly pigmented (the peachy side is actually a few degrees more intense than the fuchsia portion) and a little goes a long way. The shimmer is incredibly complex, and while visible, it’s not of the obnoxious variety; it serves to add a radiant dimension to the overall colour.

With regards to application, I found that a softer brush such as the NARS Yachiyo Kabuki (CAN $55.00) does the best job for setting down a diffused layer of colour followed by a good buffing with the N°23 Wet/Dry Brush to blur out any harsh lines, as well as help the shimmer meld into the colour.

NARS Panic Dual-Intensity Blush swatches: heavily, dry and with a dampened brush

NARS Panic Dual-Intensity Blush swatches, alternate lighting

Craving Dual-Intensity Blush is a softened seashell-pink highlighter/shimmering beach-bronze duo. Unlike Panic, this duo actually benefits from being applied with the N°23 Wet/Dry Brush, as each shade bears a lessened intensity to start with and there’s no fear of overdoing the application or creating any splotchiness with either colour. Of course, you’re always free to experiment with other brushes, but I’m totally loving both the look and control that the Wet/Dry Brush provides me when used with this particular duo.

I must admit that I was a little skeptical as to how well Craving would work as a blush, but after playing with it for a few weeks, it has quickly become one of my fave hybrid blush/bronzer/highlight products I’ve ever used. Worn dry, the colour of the bronzer portion is not only buildable, but adds a beautiful sun kissed warmth. The highlighter, is breathtakingly beautiful; there’s a luminous pink current running through it that gives a ‘seashell-like’ flash, and when applied lightly along the high planes of the face, it gives off such a stunning radiance. I don’t have enough words to describe how much I love this highlighter – in terms of colour, texture, and finish. Love, I tell you.

Applied with a dampened brush, the darker portion obviously intensifies in tone – but not by too many levels; it can also double as a contouring shade when worn in this capacity, especially for fair complexions. One tip I discovered by accident, is to apply the highlighter first along the upper part of the cheekbone, then I use the Wet/Dry Brush in a downward motion, blending it into the bronzer; this gives a gradient effect to the two shades and fuses them perfectly one to the other.

NARS Craving Dual-Intensity Blush swatches: heavily, dry and with a dampened brush

NARS Craving Dual-Intensity Blush swatches, alternate lighting

When I received these Dual-Intensity Blushes (along with the Wet/Dry Brush), I wold have sworn that Panic would be my favourite – and while both of its hues are totally up my alley, Craving has turned into the sleeper hit, hands down. The complexity of the shimmer with both is something that needs to be seen & played with in person, and while some duos may seem like rather unconventional blushes, think of it in terms of trying things out of your comfort zone, because you just never know when something will simply ‘click’ (like Craving did for me).

Available now through all NARS counters at The Bay, Holt Renfrew, Murale, Sephora and sephora.com throughout CANADA. Find more information via narscosmetics.com

Dior | Eye Reviver Palette 001

March 30, 2015

Press sample provided for my unbiased consideration

The House of Dior has hopped on the nude eyeshadow palette trend that’s so on point right now, with the release of the Eye Reviver Illuminating Neutrals Eye Palette (CAN $63.00). Admittedly, when I first heard what this was called, a part of me was hoping for some miracle product that would peel back time, but I’m certainly happy to take the brightening effect that this palette can provide. We first saw a glimpse of this beauty, when it was used by Peter Philips (Creative and Image Director, Christian Dior Beauty) backstage during the Spring 2015 show (see below) and thus, the buzz began …

Peter Philips using the Eye Reviver Palette

Backstage Spring 2015 looks using the Eye Reviver Palette

The Eye Reviver Palette is more of a warm-leaning group of colours, and includes 6 shades: 1 primer hue, 4 eye shadow shades that have been created using Glow-Mimetics™ technology for an instant radiance-boosting effect as well as colour luminosity, and 1 gel-liner to complete your look. The slim profile and totally travel-friendly compact has a transparent body and a mirrored lid embossed with the brand’s logo, a full sized mirror on the inner lid and 2 mini brushes (one is dual ended with a sponge applicator on one side and an angled brush on the other, while the second brush has a slim tapered head for use with the eyeliner). With the exception of the liner shade, the other five hues all display the Dior name in raised lettering – such a pretty touch.

All four eyeshadow shades display shimmer of the ultra finely-milled & complex variety – the type that is definitely not overt when applied, but just somehow seems to add a beautiful depth of tone and dimension, while attracting light to the area. The primer shade is relatively matte, but the texture is silky-soft which means it will not appear flat when applied and while not exactly a ‘primer’ in the conventional sense (do not expect it to set/hold your makeup – especially if you have oily lids like I do – the way an eyeshadow primer is meant to do), this shade is a great base for layering any of the others on top or even wearing on its own with a light swipe of mascara on the lashes, for a super-easy yet polished daytime look.

The eyeshadow shades have excellent pigmentation – albeit of a softer nature – with zero dust kicked up in the pan upon swirling my brushes through any of them. The primer and lightest eyeshadow colour are both very close to my natural skin tone and don’t show up as well, although they are great for evening out the eyelid tone. Of them all, the rosewood shade (#4) seems to show a stronger shimmer than the others, which makes this an excellent crease shade to provide depth and dimension. The eyeliner is a soft black that is very smoothly applying without any signs of patchiness or crumbling, and can easily be built up for a stronger intensity; once it dries down, it’s set for the duration without any fading or creasing. As far as staying power goes, the lighter hues will obviously last a little less than the darker ones – although by first layering my go-to primer underneath (I prefer the NARS Smudge-Proof Eyeshadow Base), I’m able to wear either/all without any signs of significant fading, until removed at the end of the day.

shade #1 – primer or all over base, bone coloured (no shimmer)
shade #2 – eyeshadow, pale tan (slight peachy tint in the base)
shade #3 – eyeshadow, warm taupe
shade #4 – eyeshadow, rosewood (light plum undertones)
shade #5 – eyeshadow, blackened brown
shade #6 – eyeliner, soft black (no shimmer)

Dior Eye Reviver Palette swatches

Dior Eye Reviver Palette swatches, alternate lighting

Even with the variety of neutral palettes available today – from mass market to luxury – there’s still something special about Dior’s Eye Reviver Palette that makes it a welcome addition to anyone’s collection. For starters, you have every shade you need to create a myriad of looks, from super easy (read: lazy), workplace-friendly, all the way up to evenings out. In fact, this palette with its amazing quality and shade selection, is everything I wanted the Urban Decay Naked Basics 2 (reviewed) to be (and while I do like this palette, it also happens to fall short beside the Dior), and I find myself reaching for it all the time. None of the information I have says it’s a limited edition item (insert huge sigh of relief here), although I did hear that it’s not going to be released in certain countries: you have my heartfelt sympathies, because this is probably one of the best Dior palettes I’ve ever worked with … and so worth hunting down.

The Dior Eye Reviver Palette is available now through The Bay stores and thebay.com (Canada) – find more information via dior.com

Real Techniques | Face Makeup Brushes (Finishing)

March 27, 2015

Product samples provided for my unbiased consideration

By now, beauty fans the world over are familiar with Real Techniques® makeup brushes – those totally affordable & well crafted makeup tools that have been created with the help and input of Youtube beauty gurus/sisters Samantha & Nicola Chapman of Pixiwoo fame. I was recently sent the majority of the collection to test out and in order to make things easier, I have decided to break them down by category (you can read my previous review on the face brushes, part 1 here): today’s post features the four face brushes most commonly used for finishing.

Spoiler alert: the loving continues. Read on!

Blush Brush (CAN $10.69) | This is a dome-shaped fluffy synthetic haired brush that bears exceptionally soft bristles. One of the larger blush brushes in my collection, this is nonetheless quite effective at applying a diffused sweep of colour along the cheekbones and works beautifully to blend out any harsh demarcation lines for a naturally flushed look. Those with smaller features might even find this brush useful for face powder or bronzer application as well, which only adds to its versatility.

Available at: London Drugs, Uniprix, Rexall Pharma Plus, select Familiprix, Lawtons Drugs, Pharmasave

Sculpting Brush (CAN $13.99) | Recently released from the brand, this versatile brush can be used with both cream and powder makeup, and is designed to help you accentuate your features via its angled head of densely packed – but super soft – synthetic bristles. Contouring continues to be a hot trend in beauty circles and this brush is perfect in that capacity, helping to not only apply the product to your face but also in blending out any lines for a seamless finish. In my opinion, the larger than usual & rather squared-off shape of this brush is significantly better in helping to create a ‘natural’ yet defined appearance (TIP: this brush can also be used for applying and blending out cream blushes).

Available at: London Drugs, Uniprix, Rexall Pharma Plus, select Familiprix, Lawtons Drugs, Pharmasave

Stippling Brush (CAN $10.69) | A dual-fibred brush that is every makeup artist’s secret weapon to help create that ‘airbrushed’ finish. I prefer to use a stippling brush when applying a liquid or serum-type of foundation, and this brush works beautifully in that capacity as well, although I find that its slightly smaller head makes it ideal for diffusing some of my more vividly coloured blushes along the skin (also perfect to be used with the new generation of blushes such as the NARS Dual-Intensity ). This is the type of makeup brush most people overlook, not knowing where & how to use it, but once you give it a try you will be blown away by the results. Seriously.

Available at: Walmart, London Drugs, Uniprix, Rexall Pharma Plus, select Familiprix, Lawtons Drugs, Pharmasave

Setting Brush (CAN $7.99) | A small domed & fluffy brush with an excellent flexibility and softness to its synthetic-haired bristles, making it perfect for either applying highlighter to smaller/key areas of the face or for a controlled application of face powder (such as under the eyes to set concealer or around the nose). Another use I’ve found for this brush, is in helping to ‘sweep out’ concealer – it almost magically erases any lines without any tugging or pulling along the skin, helping to give a seamless and close to airbrushed finish.

Available at: London Drugs, Uniprix, Rexall Pharma Plus, select Familiprix, Lawtons Drugs, Pharmasave

As with the first series of Real Techniques® brushes I reviewed in my earlier post, these four are equally impressive and are in constant rotation for my various beauty needs. The Sculpting Brush in particular, is unique in my collection as well as being one of the best brushes I’ve used for contouring, while the Setting Brush is my new go-to secret weapon for setting concealer. Investing in makeup brushes can be an expensive hobby (I refuse to tally up what I’ve spent over the years – my heart might stop), but a necessity nonetheless for helping you put your best face forward; thankfully, these brushes will not only help you accomplish the task beautifully, but will do so without breaking the bank. Win-Win.

Fin more information on the brand via realtechniques.com