For Fall/Winter 2018, CHANEL is revisualizing matte in a whole new way via the Apotheosis Le Mat de CHANEL Collection. Autumn’s earthy hues are reinvented and given a modern vibe — and while matte reigns supreme here, the finishes have been softened and almost blurred, providing a lushness to the textures that make them in turn utterly feminine, and yet so absolutely powerful. Provocative, done in true CHANEL style.
Vittoria Ceretti for CHANEL’s Apotheosis Collection
I have to give it to CHANEL for sending along the most beautiful as well as totally useful PR perks: this navy velvet makeup bag is EVERYTHING
The two new Les 4 Ombres eyeshadow palettes in this collection are easy to spot even when closed, as the finish of each compact case is a mattified version the brand’s classic lacquered look. According to Lucia Pica, CHANEL’s Global Head of Makeup and Colour Design, “As the light darkens outside, you need a little extra help from colour … you have the opportunity to create stronger looks” — a statement that definitely resonates with the Quiet Revolution quad, if the jewel-like tones have anything to say about it. Both palettes have several things in common; creamy & colour-saturated hues, effortless blendability, and excellent staying power (when applied over primer). And while Clair Obscur is the obvious choice for creating a more neutral and/or daytime look, you can still amp up the depth by using a dampened brush for application.
308 Clair Obscur Le 4 Ombres (CAN $70.00) | The more neutral of the two and definitely the easiest to wear, the shades all have a good warm/cool balance to them, thus making this suitable for a broad range of complexions. Easy to build up or blend out as well, the hues display excellent coverage from the first swipe … something that’s not always the case with many neutrals. You actually have all you need for an easy look with this quad, and all in the palm of your hand. The colour breakdown (clockwise from top left):
- warm deep brown
- bright light beige
312 Quiet Revolution Les 4 Ombres (CAN $70.00) | While my safety zone may be neutrals, my heart belongs to intense jewel-like hues … exactly as what’s found in this palette. The colour saturation of all four shades is quite impressive so be warned: a little really does go a long way. All blend like a dream and wear beautifully until removed (when applied over primer, that is) and the finish may say matte, but to me it reads more like velour — which suits me fine in fact, as I find it significantly more wearable this way. Now can we just talk about that stunner of a blue? This one really needs to be seen in person and even if you normally shy away from intense shades, I dare you to not instantly fall hard for this quad. The colour breakdown (from top left):
- warm light mauve
- midnight blue
- deep brown-black
- powerful blue (seriously more impactful seen in person, I promise)
12 Contour Clair Stylo Ombre et Contour (CAN $40.00) | Housed in a twist-up pen format — which happens to be my fave, re: hygienic purposes, there are two other shades released in this collection (not shown: Contour Graphique, gunmetal blue grey & Contour Sombre, black — both limited edition). The texture is super creamy and easy to apply along the sensitive skin of the eye and if you’re planning on blending out, I suggest working one eye at a time to ensure the product doesn’t set before you can finish. Also, this shade is excellent for layering under any of the hues in the Clair Obscur compact, in order to help with colour intensity. By the way, I recommend alternating the side you apply this pencil with, in order to help keep the tip relatively pointed.
Rouge Allure Ink Liquide Mat (CAN $46.00/each) | While I love the editorial look of matte lips, I’m not a fan of how drying they feel and how they seem to emphasize lip lines. That said, what makes the Rouge Allure formula so wonderful, is how incredibly comfortable it is to wear … with no desiccating aftereffect. The transparent tube makes it easy to monitor usage, while the flattened flocked applicator picks up enough product per swipe to provide full coverage from the get-go. According to Lucia Pica, “Your features can be made stronger and more defined in Autumn; bold, super-extreme matte lips look entirely natural, for example”. And while I do agree, it should be noted that the finish here — much like everything else in this collection — is a far cry from traditional flat matte, instead being more velour-like and and showing the slightest hint of sheen to keep things interesting. There are 2 more shades (not shown): Serenity, mauve brownish-pink & Expression, intense purple pink.
- 170 Euphorie – intense coral vivid pink
- 174 Melancholia – fuchsia blackcurrant
Le Rouge Crayon De Couleur Mat (CAN $46.00/each) | I’m a huge fan of jumbo lip crayons and have gone through several from CHANEL. These latest now come in a matte formula (again, think: crushed velvet, not light-absorbing flat) and offer excellent coverage from the very first swipe. The twist-up feature helps to keep the product sanitary, while the cap clicks securely shut. Of course, it wouldn’t be a Lucia Pica-designed collection if it didn’t feature her beloved signature red, and Subversion represents the shade to perfection. Not shown: Provocation, a poppy orange.
- 257 Discretion – rosy beige
- 261 Excess – intense vivid pink
- 269 Impact – purple beetroot
- 265 Subversion – powerful real red
- 267 Impulsion – brick red (limited edition)
Le Vernis Velvet, limited edition (CAN $33.00/each) | There is something so edgy about a matte nail, that indefinable je ne sais quoi that tells the world “I’m owning this” (or maybe that’s just me ∗shrugs∗). What I absolutely love about CHANEL’s version, is the finish: like the rich nap of velvet, only without the fuzz. Deep, intense, and a little bit offbeat, both are also fun to wear and a nice change from their glossier brethren. “The matte colours of Le Vernis don’t reveal themselves straightaway; they’ve a distorted quality, as if viewed through the filter of a Polaroid lens” — Lucia Pica.
The swatches below were created with a base coat and 2 coats of polish. The final swatch of each shade has a layer of CHANEL’s Le Gel Top Coat to show the look glossiffied (pretty sure that’s not a real word but I’m going with it).
- 636 Ultime – maraschino blue-based red that applies in a self-levelling way, non-patchy, and relatively quick drying. Excellent opacity even with the first layer and I suggest applying thinner coats for the most even finish. Non staining upon removal, provided base coat is worn first.
- 638 Profondeur – rich oxblood hue that comes to the same ‘rubberized’ finish as Ultime. The formula has a jelly-esque quality, displaying a bit of spring-back, but it’s nevertheless easy to apply. As before, go in with thinner layers for the best result. Non staining upon removal, provided base coat is worn first.
Here’s my dilemma; I’m a heat-lover and Summer is in full throttle as I write this post — the thought of cooler weather coming is not something I want to be even contemplating right now, but damn if CHANEL’s Apotheosis Collection doesn’t have me longing to pull out my sweaters. Thankfully, I’ve never been one to follow any rules so I’ll be playing & wearing these shades toot sweet, as they say. As to faves, I’ll summarize it in one word: EVERYTHING. Make room on your credit card …
Available August 6th at all CHANEL beauty counters
Kindly provided by CHANEL for my unbiased consideration