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Deborah Lippmann ‘Raise Your Glass’ – celebrating Holt Renfrew’s 175th Anniversary! (swatches & review)
Deborah Lippmann, über-manicurist to some of the most famous people in the world of beauty, fashion & film, and noted as the woman responsible for making glitter lacquers chic & sophisticated, recently collaborated with another grand name – Canada’s very own Holt Renfrew. To celebrate the luxury retail giant’s 175th anniversary, many of the store’s brands created exclusive & unique one-of-a-kind items just for the occasion … all managing to incorporate Holt’s’ signature magenta colour (vivid fuchsia Coke bottles anyone?!). The limited edition ‘Raise Your Glass’ Deborah Lippmann varnish, made specifically for the store’s birthday milestone, means that you can now have a piece of Holt’s always at your fingertips … literally!
the original Holt Renfrew store, founded in 1837 – Québec City (source)
the art deco building of Holt Renfrew Montréal, 1937 (source)
Holt Renfrew Montréal today (source)
the legendary & stunning art deco bronze doors of Holt Renfrew Montréal (source)
Diet Coke for Holt Renfrew (source)
Christian Louboutin exclusive for Holt Renfrew (source)
Giorgio Armani exclusive lipstick for Holt Renfrew (source)
Deborah Lippmann – ‘Raise Your Glass’ for Holt Renfrew
Deborah Lippmann – ‘Raise Your Glass’ for Holt Renfrew
Deborah Lippmann – ‘Raise Your Glass’ for Holt Renfrew
‘Raise Your Glass’ – is a lusciously deep & rich magenta hue, filled with vivid fuchsia fine hexagonal glitter. The rather thick formula which gives excellent coverage and opacity even by the first coat, which also means that it will stay put exactly where applied, without running or pooling into the cuticle area. Its crème base seems to have some jelly-like qualities to it, brought out clearly with the addition of a top coat. The ultra-fine glitter doesn’t sink into the depth of this colour, but seems to float near the surface level – giving the final appearance a slight “sandwiched” tone, or as though seen through a filter.
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Paradoxically, the glitter – which is very visible to the naked eye, seems quite camera-shy here, with the swatches only barely revealing hints of its brilliant flashes, but it certainly serves to add a beautiful dimension of depth overall. While the application is relatively smooth despite the glitter, the final finish not only looks a little rough, but feels gritty to the touch – I applied 2 layers of top coat here, in order to truly enhance this vivid beauty. Some elbow grease is definitely required for complete removal, although on the plus side, it’s a 100% non-staining shade. All swatches are with Seche Clear Base Coat and Seche Vite Top Coat. Coats applied: 2
in sunlight
in sunlight/alternate angle
macro
shaded light
with flash
shown against the iconic colour of a Holt’s shopping bag
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Final thoughts: For all you non-Canadians out there, I want you to know that Holt Renfrew is our “holy grail” department store … or, at least it is for me, and has been since I was about 3 (I believe my first word may have been “luxe”). I tend to shy away from many pink shades, mainly because I’ve always felt that it wasn’t a colour suited to my particular skin tone. ‘Raise Your Glass’ is a far cry from feeble, and I absolutely love its strong intensity; the fine glitter looks especially gorgeous when sunlight glints off the nail surface, giving your mani a sly “zing” – captivating, really. As this is a Holt Renfrew exclusive (retailing for CDN $22.00), it is only available through the store itself and if my sources are correct, for a limited time as well. Get some of your “Canadian” on, eh?!
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Deborah Lippmann ‘Modern Love’ Fall 2012 (swatches, comparisons & review)
When I think of fall colours, usually deeper hues come to mind; Deborah Lippmann decided to go in another direction and take things down a notch. ‘Modern Love’, one of 2 new shades released for fall 2012 (the other is ‘Let’s Go Crazy’), is an utterly creamy neutral hue, but make no mistake: what might seem like a run-of-the-mill nude colour may just surprise you. Sometimes, a whisper draws more attention than a shout …
‘Modern Love’ is a surprisingly complex crème shade with a mix of dusky rose and earthy mauve, with some grey tints thrown in as well. With a formula that flows somewhat on the thin side, it stops just short of being runny and manages to bear an easy mess-proof consistency. The first coat gave quite decent coverage for a shade this light, applying in a relatively non-streaking manner and laying down quite smoothly, with the second coat displaying more of its mauve leanings. As seen in the swatches below, some lights bring out a more tan side, while others highlight an antique rose hue … very multi-faceted for a neutral. The natural gloss at the finish was quite good, although I prefer how a layer of top coat enhances all of its subtleties. The following swatches are with Seche Clear Base Coat and Seche Vite Top Coat. Coats applied: 3 (for photographic purposes – otherwise 2 would be more than sufficient)
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in sunlight
shaded light
with flash
Naked (left), Modern Love (center), & Fashion (right) – in natural light
Naked, Modern Love, & Fashion
I resisted picking up ‘Modern Love’ at first, convinced that it was already too close to the 2 other Deborah Lippmann neutrals in my collection, ‘Naked’ (previously reviewed here) and ‘Fashion’. Naturally, my curiosity won out and upon swatching the 3 together, I’m glad I caved – happy to admit I was wrong and that I really don’t have anything exactly like it! Here’s how they all compared: (all are with 3 coats for consistency, as well as base & top coats)
- index finger: ‘Naked’ – palest of the three, leaning more peach, similar formula
- middle & pinkie fingers: ‘Modern Love’
- ring finger: ‘Fashion’ – the most neutral, beige-toned, the smoothest & best application of the three
in sunlight
shaded light
with flash
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Final thoughts: Finding the right neutral/nude hue to work with your skin tone, is not as easy as you’d think; too yellow-toned and your hands wind up looking sallow, too grey-toned and you run the risk of appearing corpse-like, too pink-toned and “mannequin hands” rule … but ‘Modern Love’ somehow manages to combine just enough of all these tones to compliment instead of clash. Against my still summer-tanned skin, the colour appears a lot more rosy and delicate; I’m thinking that once my tan fades, the colour will then appear much more urban and sophisticated, but either way, I’m totally loving its unexpectedly composed look – a refreshing, almost “non-colour” to kick some “vampy” butt!
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*Disclaimer: some products provided by the company/PR for my unbiased consideration
Illamasqua: ‘Prosperity’ Nail Varnish – Limited Edition Rubber Brights Collection (swatches & review)
It’s not often that the word “rubber” is associated with nail lacquer … unless it happens to come from Illamasqua. This peculiar finish was first introduced in the fall of 2011 with the brand’s ‘Theatre of the Nameless’ collection (previously reviewed here), where its unique look became an instant hit. Recently released as a Sephora exclusive, ‘Prosperity’ is one of 10 new varnishes now available in this “dominatrix-chic” finish – whips not included.
the 10 Rubber Brights shades (source)
Prosperity – boxed
‘Prosperity’ is a paradox in more ways than one; this vivid purple colour which bears some magenta tones in its base but can also look slightly blue-tinged in other lighting, falls somewhere between cool and warm, making it easily worn by all skin hues across the spectrum. The formula was STELLAR: a perfect flow with great opacity even by the first coat, levelling off utterly smooth. Verging into neon territory when initially applied, its unique finish soon tamps down the colour to a lesser intensity, although no less vibrant. The rubberized finish takes about 1 1/2 minutes to develop, leaving nails looking softly diffused, as though seen through a filter. Ridiculously COOL! Coats applied: 2
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Another benefit to a varnish with this finish, is that you can easily change things up by adding a layer of top coat for a glossier look, or take things back down a notch by applying a mattifying varnish, as evidenced by the 3 looks I’m showing for each of the following swatches (all done with base coat). buy bystolic online noprescriptionbuyonlinerxx.com/bystolic.html no prescription
- the original rubberized finish looks almost 3D and slightly “out-of-focus”, almost fuzzy
- the glossy look really emphasizes its “purpleness”, turning up the intensity
- the mattified version muddies up its appearance by making it look slightly flat – an even easier way to wear a colour this extreme
in sunlight
in sunlight, top coat added
in sunlight, mattified
shaded light
shaded light, top coat added
shaded light, mattified
with flash
with flash, top coat added
with flash, mattified
Final thoughts: I absolutely love the chameleon-like properties of this finish; the super-vivid colour ensures your nails will get noticed, then the rubberized finish will guarantee a double-take. Bearing an amazing formula that almost applies itself, doesn’t hurt either – that’s for sure. Something about this entire look is almost subliminally seductive, yet still manages to stay modern & sophisticated … not sure how Illamasqua managed to capture all those qualities in a bottle of nail varnish, but there it is.
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Illamasqua’s ‘Prosperity’ (CDN $18.00/15 ml), is one of the 10 limited edition ‘Rubber Finish Nail Varnishes’ and available only through Sephora as an online exclusive – get ’em while they’re hot!
*Disclaimer: Product sample provided by the company/PR for my unbiased consideration
Illamasqua – Generation Q Collection AW/12 ‘Charisma’ and ‘Creator’ Nail Varnish (swatches, comparisons, & review)
Leave it to the razor-sharp creative minds at Illamasqua, to create a collection that almost takes a 360° from what they’ve been showing us lately. A far cry from the exotic, the eccentric, and the alluringly bizarre past Illamasqua incarnations, the ‘Generation Q’ collection of products for Autumn/Winter 2012 is actually rather, well … universally wearable. Could it be that “normal” is the new “weird”?!
From Illamasqua’s press release:
GenerationQ
Where beauty has no age limits
I. Absolutely. LOVE. That. Frequently, I’ll see an ad for a beauty collection, and then realize how totally unwearable that look may be for me — highly frustrating, especially when the models in the ad just look so darn good …
What Illamasqua wishes to achieve with this collection, is to dispel the myth that beauty is highly exclusive – all by creating products that are highly inclusive, regardless of one’s gender, skin colour, or age. To that end, not only has the brand reached their goals on every level, but exceeded them as well. Take for instance these 2 limited edition varnishes; a ruby so richly saturated with colour, that it can’t help but empower its wearer, and a shimmering black that takes you to the very edge of modernism, and back again, both in Illamasqua’s ridiculously stellar formula. All swatches are with Seche Clear Base Coat and Seche Vite Top Coat.
‘Charisma’ is like applying liquified rubies along your nails. Seriously. A superbly flowing formula & application: this rich garnet base is completely self-levelling, with no visible brush strokes and filled with ultra finely ground magenta and burgundy shimmer. Applying with an intense pigmentation of colour even by the 1st coat, a second layer provides a more jewel-like tone and intensifies its plummy undertones. A medium-thick viscosity that allows no running or pooling into the cuticle area, the shine at the finish was an extra high gloss. BONUS: No staining upon removal. Coats applied: 2
in sunlight
macro
in shaded light
with flash
Finding a ‘Charisma’ clone in my collection wasn’t as easy as I thought it would be; it came as something of a surprise when I stumbled across Essie’s ‘Swing Velvet’ (I believe this is a 2009 release and may not be available anymore) and then did a further double-take when I swatched the two together. How it compared:
index & pinkie fingers: Essie’s ‘Swing Velvet’ (2 coats) – a significantly thinner formula, but nonetheless still quite colour-saturated by the 1st coat as well. Applying smoothly and quite glossy at the finish, this is literally a degree or 2 deeper in tone when seen with the naked eye against ‘Charisma’, but other than its shimmer being a touch coarser-looking, the two are almost identical. Coats applied: 2
in sunlight
in sunlight/alternate lighting
in shaded light
with flash
‘Creator’ (I LOVE this name!) bears a slightly sheer black base, redolent with ultra fine square and rectangularly shaped silver glitter. An excellently flowing formula that applies very smoothly despite the glitter, this became 100% opaque by the second coat, although the finish was definitely not as glossy – imparting a gentle sheen instead. One layer of top coat is all that’s needed to really enhance this beauty and to keep it smooth to the touch. While removal does require a bit of elbow grease, it wasn’t too difficult – just bear in mind that the glitter will travel somewhat. Completely non-staining upon removal, another plus. Coats applied: 2
in sunlight
macro
in shaded light
with flash
Looking for a comparison shade, the first lacquer that came to mind was NARS’ ‘Night Breed’ (previously reviewed here) from their ‘Night Series’ release. Yes, they are quite close. No, they’re not identical. If you missed out on the NARS, as it had been a limited edition item, here’s your chance at redemption — not that Illamasqua comes second to any other brand, mind you. How it compared:
index & pinkie fingers: NARS ‘Night Breed’ – a similar flow and application, but the black base is slightly more opaque, with its glitter bearing some tiny round shapes and being less densely packed than ‘Creator’. There appears to be a blueish tinge to this hue overall, although it winds up with the same dulled finish and has a similar level of grit to its glitter as the Illamasqua. Coats applied: 2
in sunlight
in sunlight/alternate lighting
in shaded light
with flash
Final thoughts: One thing I really admire about Illamasqua’s varnishes, is their consistency: the all maintain the same excellent level of quality in their flow, spread, pigmentation and wear – even the brush holds the right amount of rigidity/flexibility for a superior application. Neither ‘Charisma’ or ‘Creator’ are outrageous shades in and of themselves; what makes them stand out is their almost jewel-like intensity, as well as how well these shades translate from day to night – eminently suitable for all skin types across the spectrum, much like Illamasqua intended them to be.
The ‘Generation Q’ collection is set to launch on September the 6th, but you can see the entire range on Illamasqua’s website live now.
*Disclaimer: Product samples provided by the company/PR for my unbiased consideration
a-england – The ‘Gothic Beauties’ Collection (swatches & review)
In the short time since a-england, a boutique nail lacquer brand was launched, it has achieved cult status – for all the right reasons. The formulas are absolutely superb, the colours diverse and almost surrealistically beautiful, the concepts behind each collection are cohesive and unique, but the icing on the cake is the founder & creative mind behind the brand: Adina Bodana, a woman with vision and heart, who makes one feel as though each bottle of varnish is sent with love. And it is, trust me on that. With ‘The Mythicals’ (all previously reviewed here, here, here, here & here) and ‘The Legend’ (previously reviewed here) collections having been met with such rave reviews, what could possibly top that? The ‘Gothic Beauties’ Collection … that’s what.
the menacingly sly beauty of a gothically-inspired landscape
Presenting a-england’s latest release, the ‘Gothic Beauties’ collection – a group of 5 subtly shimmering colours, with the brand’s ultra black shade ‘Camelot’ forming the backbone behind each hue. Each richly glowing shade is based on a character from well-known gothic literature and the theme that ties them all together is one that is at once tragic and romantically dreamy, but the underlying currents of intense passion present in each, is what truly binds them and makes them come alive. These 5 glorious lacquers simmer with hidden desires, needing only the right set of circumstances to bring them out … or in this case, the right lighting. All swatches are with a-england’s ‘The Knight’ Base Coat and ‘The Shield’ Top Coat.
Dorian Gray Series 2008 – Elena Zolotnitsky (source)
Dorian Gray – in natural light
Based on the title of character of Oscar Wilde’s “The Picture of Dorian Gray”, a man who falls prey to a completely hedonistic way of life, transferring all of his inner ugliness to his portrait, all the while presenting the world with a facade of surpassing beauty. He is ultimately saved by his realization that only his death can somehow atone for all of his sins.
‘Dorian Gray’ is a complex gunmetal/pewter hue, infused with ultra-fine deep gold shimmer that also bears some particles of green and pink scattered throughout, lending this shade a sinister beauty. The formula, while the thickest of the 5, applied in a buttery and completely self-levelling way, and the saturation of colour is such that you barely need more than 1 coat for complete opacity. With a unique blueish tinge when seen in subdued light, the final look gleams intently, although top coat really enhances all of its nuances. Coats applied: 2
in sunlight
macro
shaded light
with flash
Young Christian Martyr (Ophelia) – Paul Delaroche, 1855 (source)
Ophelia – in natural light
Based on the doomed character in Shakespeare’s play, “Hamlet”, young Ophelia is destined to be the future king of Denmark’s wife, but is sent conflicting messages by Hamlet himself, whom she comes to be besotted with. Upon the death of her father, she spirals deeper into madness, finally killing herself by drowning, after having taken the herb rue – a well known symbol of regret.
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‘Ophelia’ is filled with the same inner struggles and complexities as its namesake character; an incredibly easy-flowing formula, the blackened base serves as the perfect backdrop for the multitude of crushed amethyst ultra fine shimmer at its core. Application of a thicker layer can definitely make this a 1-coater if so desired, although the purple gleam really develops beautifully by the second coat. Completely self-levelling and finishing with an excellent gloss, there was no staining left behind upon removal. Coats applied: 2
in sunlight
macro
shaded light
with flash
Disappointed Love – Francis Danby 1821 (source)
Tess d’Urbervilles – in natural light
Based on the character Tess Durbeyfield in Thomas Hardy’s much acclaimed novel “Tess d’Urbervilles: A Pure Woman Faithfully Presented” (1891), a story about a woman of the rurals, whose life is torn apart by the conventions of Victorian society when she inadvertently becomes the carnal focus of Alec d’Urberville – a man of self-imposed nobility and despicable morals. Even though Tess herself is of pure heart, her beauty makes her a target and she is doomed to live in a time where womanly ideals are rigidly adhered to, thus making it impossible for her to ever find inner peace. Though she becomes imprisoned and ultimately executed for murdering Alec, she meets her sad fate finally rid of that man’s insiduous hold over her … finding peace at least in death.
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‘Tess d’Urbervilles’ is a mesmerizing blackened hue filled with ultra-fine irregularly shaped & shimmering emerald flecks deep within, truly evocative of the lush & verdant landscape that Thomas Hardy’s novel is based in. While the formula here follows that of the rest and applies slightly thickly, it is of such creamy consistency that it makes the flow superb. Not as glossy as ‘Ophelia’, this gem becomes blindingly brilliant by the addition of top coat. No staining upon removal – always a bonus. Coats applied: 2
in sunlight
macro
shaded light
with flash
The Lady of Shalott – John William Waterhouse 1888 (source)
Lady of Shalott – in natural light
Based on the poem by Alfred, Lord Tennyson (1809 – 1892), this is loosely based on the Arthurian tales and in particular, that of Elaine who so deeply loved Sir Lancelot. The 19 stanzas (originally 20), tell the story of a woman, the Lady of Shalott, who is doomed to stay locked up in her tower and may never look fully upon Camelot, lest a mysterious curse takes her. Forced then to view the world only through her mirror, she thus displays what she sees through her weavings, but one day when Lancelot chances to ride by, she cannot help but be overcome by his beauty and presence, and upon looking at him, she brings about the curse. Knowing that there is no hope and wanting to avoid inflicting any evil on anyone else, she comes out of her tower and takes a boat downriver towards Camelot, but tragically dies along the way – only to be found by Lancelot who is awed by her serene and graceful beauty as seen in death.
‘Lady of Shalott’ bears the same blackened based as the others of the series, with the ultra-fine blue and scant pink inner particles lending this shade an inky overall tone. Viewed in sunlight, its inner sapphire flashes are a striking presence – referencing the blue tinge of the mirror that the Lady of Shalott is forced to see by, as well as the cloudless day when she first espies Lancelot. With a perfectly self-levelling and silky flowing formula, the final result is one that literally yields celestial beauty. Coats applied: 2
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in sunlight
macro
shaded light
with flash
Jane Eyre (source)
Jane Eyre – in natural light
Based on Charlotte Brontë’s novel “Jane Eyre” and its central character of the same name, this is a tale of submerged passions, cruelty, deceit and finally, love. Jane, orphaned at a young age, comes to live with her abusive relatives but is finally rid of them years later upon entering a charitable boarding school. Upon graduation, she finds employment as a governess to a ward of Edward Rochester, the “byronic” master of the manor Thornfield Hall, and gradually they come to feel a deep love for one another. While Jane accepts Mr. Rochester’s marriage proposal, circumstances continually conspire against them, and when she learns he is still married to his former wife, she runs away rather than live in sin with him in the south of France, as he proposed they do. Eventually, she learns that his estranged and mad wife set fire to the manor, committing suicide by jumping to her death and leaving Mr. Rochester maimed and blinded by this disaster. Jane returns to him, finally able to indulge in their love for one another despite everything, and she finds freedom in her passions at last.
‘Jane Eyre’ is a brooding, deeply mysterious shade, filled with ribbons of ultra-fine scarlet shimmer that resemble the burning embers of a banked fire. Perfectly suited to the character for which it is named, as the colour red figures prominently throughout the story, this bears the same incredible formula as the rest, with application laying down utterly smooth, and while not truly glossy, there is nonetheless a wonderful gleam at the finish with zero staining upon removal. Coats applied: 2
in sunlight
macro
shaded light
with flash
A little something extra: while working on this review, I drew inspiration by listening to the haunting tones of Loreena McKennitt, a brilliant Canadian artist (and one of my all-time favourites, I might add), in particular her rendition of “The Lady of Shalott” which she set to an original score. Enjoy …
Final thoughts: If you have yet to try an a-england lacquer, you are missing out on a truly unique experience – once that combines beauty, form, function and history. Finding inspiration in her love of art and literature, Adina has managed to once again provide us with shades that make an impression; no wildly eccentric colours or exotic finishes here, but five deeply saturated varnishes that provide a subtle beauty, elegance, sophistication, and a dangerous modern edge – further proof that the adage “less is more” was never more accurate. I don’t have a favourite amongst these jewels, as each one displays something different and covers all moods, which therefore means that I absolutely LOVE them equally; I will say that you need to look at these with a connoisseur’s eye in order to completely appreciate all of their intricate complexities, but in the end, the stellar formula of each shade speaks for itself.
EDIT: For those that can’t get enough of this amazing brand (which is probably everyone), please note that Adina also has another couple of shades – separate from this collection – in the planning stages that she is presently working on. I will be providing updates as they get closer to launch.
The ‘Gothic Beauties’ Collection is slated for an early September release, but feel free to follow a-england on facebook/twitter for all the latest updates, and do check out the brand’s website for information on the entire product range.
*Product samples provided by the company/PR for my unbiased consideration
*Video courtesy of Youtube
