CHANEL’s Dernières Neiges Collection is filled with an ethereal watercolour beauty as well as the promise of Spring … and about as lovely as a collection can get. Rose tones which add such a brightening effect, play a starring role along with texture and formula variations — but the real story is in how beautifully everything works, whether you opt for just one piece or the entire lot (although something tells me you’ll want it all).
Previously reviewed from this collection:
302 Première Éclosion Les 4 Ombres (CAN $68.00) | The four shade of this compact lean on the subtle side intensity-wise, but are all surprisingly well-pigmented just the same. All bear finely-milled shimmer of varying degrees and blend effortlessly with minimal fall down. Applying the lighter hues over primer will help them pop even more, although as the intention is to be more watercolour-like, I’d stick with using the darkest shade at the outer corner of the eye if more intensity is needed, thereby allowing the lighter colours to enhance — rather than compete — with your eyes.
I literally opened up all my CHANEL quads (of which there are something like a bajillion) to find a duplicate, but the only one that came somewhat close is Délicatesse Ombre Fleuries (2013, no longer available) — although it’s obvious that while the harmony might initially appear similar, it leans much cooler and with a more shimmery texture to the shades.
54 Nuage Bleu Ombre Première (CAN $40.00) | One of two shades available (the other is Blooming Rose, not shown), I did not expect this icy baby blue to apply as pigmented as it did — but the depth shown is quite welcome, indeed. Layered up over primer, it will serve to brighten eyes as well as give off a retro 70’s vibe, but you can also use a fan brush to apply this shade as a highlighter along upper cheekbones, inner eye corner, or under the brow bone. It actually gives off a really unique effect in this manner — just make sure to use a light hand & blend well.
130 Tweed Evanescent Les Tissages de CHANEL, limited edition (CAN $50.00) | Created to mimic CHANEL’s iconic tweed fabric, this vivid coral/rose shade has a delicate golden overspray that wipes off from the first swipe, to reveal the colour in all its glory underneath. The pigmentation is quite strong, so I suggest going in with a light hand and tapping any excess off your brush first — you can always add more, if needed. The texture is quite extraordinary as well: ultra finely milled and providing skin a stunning glow, one that looks like a healthy complexion and not as though it’s simply sitting on top. Staying power is impressive as well, staying true without fading or oxidizing until removed.
Looking through my other CHANEL Tweed blushes, I pulled out the three that I wanted to compare Tweed Evanescent to, and while Tweed Coralline is the only one that came close, it lacks that extra bit of rose in the base.
- Tweed Cherry Blossom (2017, no longer available) – deep/hot pink, cooler toned
- Tweed Coralline (2017, no longer available) – peachier, a few degrees lighter
- Tweed Pink (2011, no longer available) – palest pink, sheerer in pigmentation
180 Rose Pétale Palette Essentielle (CAN $85.00) | This 3-in-1 palette holds 3 cream products: a blush, a highlighter, and a concealer, turning this into an utterly perfect travel companion — whether for a weekend getaway, or even to simply tuck into your makeup bag for any touch-ups during the day. The blush shade also works double duty for lips, the highlighter can serve as an eye-brightening shadow, and the concealer can also work as a spot foundation, all of which increases the utility of this palette even more. The textures on all are buttery smooth and very easy to blend out and while emollient in nature, they all still nevertheless display excellent staying power.
Of the 3 Palette Essentielles released last year, I have the medium and darker versions (the latter which is way too dark to compare so I didn’t opt to show it here) and it’s clear that there are no colour overlaps between the two. Those who own the lightest palette (Beige Clair) may find it similar, but as I don’t have it I couldn’t say one way or the other.
798 Camélia Rouge Coco Gloss (CAN $37.00) | CHANEL glosses have long been some of my absolute favourites and while I will always be a fan of the Glossimer range, I must admit that I do love the Rouge Coco Gloss texture (buttery smooth, relatively non-sticky) with its wide flocked applicator. This shade runs sheer and has that magical shimmer which serves to add depth, and while staying power is not excessive, it still gives a subtle pop of coral/pink to lips while keeping them hydrated throughout the wearing & even after it has faded.
136 Dernière Givre Rouge Coco Shine, limited edition (CAN $43.00) | The last time I was this excited for a Rouge Coco Shine shade was many years ago with the limited edition gold Vegas version (which I thankfully own), but now I’m feeling that same excitement for this unique pearly hue. With a texture that leans more balm than lipstick, this shade is pretty much goof-proof to apply (no mirror needed, in fact) and makes for a welcome alternative to the ubiquitous nudes I usually like to wear. Staying power is as expected for something in this colour group, approximately 3 hours — less so with eating and/or drinking, but I have no issue with reapplying if need be.
I opted to compare Camélia to other Rouge Coco Gloss shades I currently own, and these are the two I found that came closest:
- Sibylla – more peach tinted, significantly less shimmer
- Tendresse – a deeper rose but with similar shimmer
606 Aurore Le Vernis (CAN $32.00) | A carnation pink crème hue that somehow magically leans both cool & warm, filled with ultra fine fuchsia shimmer that is really only visible in direct light, but which serves to add a lovely depth of tone just the same. Self-levelling and showing a decent opacity with one layer, Aurore definitely needs 2 coats for full coverage. Interestingly enough for a mid-range hue, it does have staining potential so do NOT skip base coat first.
Coats: 2 plus Le Gel Top Coat
So there you have it: a CHANEL collection that absolutely exemplifies the essence of Spring, but with a few unexpected perks via such excellent colour saturation. Much like Lucia Pica herself, pink is rarely a shade I gravitate towards yet when it’s done as intelligently as it is here, you can definitely consider me a convert. My personal faves of the bunch are Dernière Givre for the Ice Queen effect it gives and Tweed Evanescent for being as stunning to look at as it is to wear — but beware of the dreaded limited edition. Also, how lovely is this collection for Valentine’s Day? ♥
Available at CHANEL counters
Kindly provided by the CHANEL team for my unbiased consideration